Lab 5 : Noise Reduction

50 mm : ISO 100 - f/16 - 3"

On :

Off :

There seem to not have much of a difference between the noise reduction On and Off at ISO 100. Because the ISO is already very low, it doesn't change much to the image.

50mm : ISO 800 - f/16 - 0.4"

On :

Off :

For 800 ISO, we start seeing a little bit of noise around when the noise reduction is Off, mostly on the canvas. When I turn my noise reduction On, I think that my camera reduces pretty well for a high ISO without loosing much details. Since noise is much more visible in darker places, I assured myself to at least have a little bit of black to compare my noise reductions properly.

50mm : ISO 6400 - f/16 - 1/20 secs.

On :

Off :

For 6400 ISO, which is the highest ISO possible on the Nikon D3200, if we compare it to the other ISO featured on this blog, we can see a pretty good difference, noise reduction on and off. Although for the noise reduction on, I still think it does a pretty decent job in reducing the noise. I only have an On & Off option for noise reduction so I can't do a comparison between Low, Standard & High but if I had to choose between keeping the noise reduction On & Off, I'd prefer keeping it On because I don't loose much details after all.

Assignment 1

Landscape with deep DOF

f/16 - 1/80 secs. - ISO 100

For my landscape shot I figured that with snow a lower vantage point would be the best choice for this shot. With my 50mm lens, because it was all I had on me at the time, the smallest  aperture I could obtain was f/16. I didn't have any idea in particular for shooting my landscape shot, all as long as everything was in focus and sharp, and that what I'm shooting is decent-looking, I was very satisfied with this. 

Night scene

f/5.6 - 2.5" - ISO 100

For my night scene photograph, as I was reading the assignment I saw "ghosted elements and light trails" and this was the first thing I thought of. In the "Instagram" world this is what we call "fire-painting", you light up some steel wool, attach it to something and start "whipping it" around. All depending on what shape exactly you want to capture. In my case, we tried an 8 sideways (infinite sign basically), a regular circle from the top, on the side and also from the front. I had to play a lot mostly with my shutter speed because I either had too many light trails in my picture or not quite enough, in the end this was one of my best shots that I am more than satisfied with. The person in the image is still visible but isn't exactly sharp and on focused, it seems more ghosted than anything else, another reason why I liked this image a lot, I have a mix of both ghosting & light trails.

Portrait with shallow DOF

f/1.8 - 1/125 secs. - ISO 800

For this portrait I just wanted to make something simple. No huge set, makeup or anything. Just my subject and a satisfying background. I chose the kitchen because the lighting was good and also because he likes spending time in the kitchen (he likes cooking) so I told myself, why not have him in an environment he likes? Focusing on his eyes was what mattered the most for me. 

Shooting a sport

f/8 - 1/150 secs. - ISO 800

This is probably not the most ideal sport shot but here's an acquaintance of mine sort of climbing//jumping around. In this shot more precisely, if I remember it well, he was just about to jump on another platform (I honestly don't know what it is). Initially, I wanted him to do a few flips around the place and have a shot of him in the air as he does his stunts, but because of the weather conditions that day I preferred not making him do that, he also preferred climbing around so I didn't stop him from doing so either, When our teacher gave this as apart of our assignment, I knew that going to an actual sporting event wasn't going to be easy because I don't have the right equipment nor an can I get very close to my subject. So I came up with this idea and it worked out pretty well in the end. 

Lab 3 : Focal Length

 f/5.6 - 1/160 secs. - ISO 400
18mm (18-55mm)

f/5.6 - 1/125 secs. - ISO 400

55mm (18-55mm)

Still-Life :
On the first image, where the focal length is 18mm, there is more background than on 55mm one. We see a big difference of distortion from one image to another, because of its focal length.

f/3.5 - 1/60 secs. - ISO 800

18mm (18-55mm)

f/1.8 - 1/60 secs - ISO 400

50mm

Portrait :

From the 18mm to the 50mm, we see a huge distortion. On the first image, there is more background and the faces look more distorted than on the second one. The depth-of-field changes as well from one image to another because of my aperture, but also because of my focal length.

f/2.8 - 1/80 secs. - ISO 800

70mm (70-200mm) 

f/2.8 - 1/160 secs. - ISO 800

105mm (70-200mm)

f/2.8 - 1/100 - ISO 800

135mm (70-200mm)

 f/16 - 1/60 secs. - ISO 3200
70mm (70-200mm)

f/16 - 1/30 secs. - ISO 3200

105mm (70-200mm)

f/16 - 1/30 - ISO 3200

135mm (70-200mm)

Part 2 : Focal Length and Depth-of-Field

For these images, I had to change lens because my 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 didn't show any big difference from a wide to small aperture. We see a huge difference of depth-of-field from the f/2.8 and f/16, the background is much blurrier on the f/2.8 shots.

f/4 - 1/125 secs. - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/5.6 - 1/80 secs. - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/8 - 1/40 - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/11 - 1/20 secs. - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/16 - 1/10 secs. - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/22 - 1/5 secs. - ISO 100

18mm (18-55mm)

f/5.6 - 1/80 secs. - ISO 100

30mm (18-55mm)

f/8 - 1/40 secs. - ISO 100

30mm (18-55mm)

f/11 - 1/20 secs. - ISO 100

30mm (18-55mm)

f/16 - 1/10 secs - ISO 100

30mm (18-55mm)

f/22 - 1/5 secs - ISO 100

30mm (18-55mm)

f/5.6 - 1/50 secs - ISO 100

55mm (18-55mm)

 f/8 - 1/30 secs - ISO 100
55mm (18-55mm)

 f/11 - 1/15 secs. - ISO 100
55mm (18-55mm)

f/16 - 1/8 secs. - ISO 100

55mm (18-55mm)

f/22 - 1/4 secs. - ISO 100

55mm (18-55mm)

Part 3 : Test your lens
Everything went pretty well for this part, the only difficulty I got was because of the different focal lengths I had to use. I had to get closer or further away from the target, it wasn't much but sometimes it could be difficult. Also as of aperture speaking, as my f-stops got smaller (ex: f/22), the clearer everything got. I don't see a HUGE difference but the difference is still there.

Lab 2 : Aperture

Still-Life 1 - Shallow
f/2 - 1/10 secs - ISO 100
The shallower the background is, the less information we have of the background. On this picture, our depth-of-field is very shallow which brings us almost no information on the area we are in right now. All focus is on the subject, which is the Tamron lens. I prefer this picture out of all three of my still-life pictures because of its depth-of-field. All focus is on one thing and whenever I take pictures like this outside of school, I get a little excited to post them on social media.

Still-Life 2 - Mediumf/8 - 2.5" - ISO 100
Here's the result of a medium depth-of-field. It isn't too blurry nor is it too sharp. Its as if our eyes are slowly starting to adjust to have the whole image on focus. As I've said on my other post, I like pictures with a shallow depth-of-field, so I guess this one is passable to my preferences. We can also start to determine where exactly this picture was taken. Students and teachers who often go to the school library would immediately notice that this picture was taken there, although you can't be 100% sure because the background isn't fully on focus.

Still-Life 3 - Deep
f/16 - 6" - ISO 100
This is the sharpest I could go with my 50mm lens, f/16. It is noticeably much sharper than the two others, but let's say it could've been better if I used a different lens. On this picture this depth-of-field could be considered deep, everything is sharp on the image from the background to the subject to focus on itself. Rather than having your eyes concentrated on one part of the image, you have other places to look at. We can now clearly see that this picture was taken at the library, for we see a student in the background studying and all the little cubicles. 

Architecture
f/25 - 8" - ISO 100

Portrait 1 - Shallow
f/2 - 1/100 secs. - ISO 100
This image was taken with a shallow depth-of-field, so the main focus is on the subject, in this case it's Emily. Compared to the second portrait, we see a big difference in the background of the pictures. On this one, our focus is mainly on Emily because everything else is blurred out so which should "prevent" us from looking around. On the other one, our eyes have places to look, the canvases in the background and also Emily. 

Portrait 2 - Deep
f/16 - 0.5" - ISO 100
Like I've said on the previous post, because of this deep depth-of-field, everything is pretty sharp on this image. We can look around & see more clearly the details of the art behind her.